Norm Distortion: Dilara Findikoglu
Dramatic silhouettes, bright reds and pinks, occult themes, and a haunting appeal are just a few facets of what makes Turkish-born, London-based designer Dilara Findikoglu so exciting. Though she graduated from Central Saint-Martins just four years ago, her iconoclastic and uncompromising work has already reached the likes of Grimes, FKA Twigs, and Marilyn Manson.
Being born and raised in Turkey meant that religion and politics were a “way of life,” for the designer, whether she liked it or not. Incredibly unhappy with the fact that Turkey’s government notoriously puts religion in the center of politics, Dilara quickly became anti-religion, shown in her Satanic nodes, and subversively promiscuous garments. In an interview with i-D, she confidently said, “It was about a new belief system that ignores the control imposed by religions and unifies people by its laws based on simple human acts. This was a reaction to question fundamentalist constructs that are currently terrorizing the world.” An unwavering individual at her core, Dilara answers her own existential dilemmas through her designs. Mass-production is the least of her concerns. She said, “What’s the role of fashion designers if buyers are going to decide what’s going to be the It product?” We can see her unapologetic creation manifest through heavy-metal makeup looks, form-accentuating corsets, and even a beaded ovaries-patch (yes, you read that right) in front of one of her trousers.
One of the most interesting things Findikoglu does in her career is to incorporate occultism and spirituality within her artistry. For her Spring 2020 show, she performed a mass ritual to summon awareness about climate change. It even included talismans, poems, and a peace sign stuck to the wall with blood --whether it was real or not is unconfirmed. Findikoglu stated that 60 to 75 percent of her Spring 2020 collection was designed to eliminate as much waste as possible, using up-cycled pieces and Turkish hand-weaving techniques. Though the careful processes resulted in irregular designs, Findikoglu embraced this, as it played into her brand’s rather unpredictable prowess. Some of Dilara’s inspirations include Alejandro Jodorowsky, a filmmaker and Psychomagic enthusiast, René Guénon, an author and intellectual with a specialization in mysticism, and, of course, Dame Vivienne Westwood, a designer and activist responsible for the British punk movement. Findikoglu makes her appreciation for Westwood widely known; she even created a T-shirt embellished with chains which reads “VIVIENNE SAYS BUY LESS” in a large, sharp font. Some additional ties to Westwood within Findikoglu’s brand include the aforementioned corsets, as well as deconstructed suits. For both of their brands, sustainability and careful creation are essential pillars.
When asked what it means to be a ‘Dilara Girl,’ Findikoglu said it is to be, “Non-obedient and controversial. She doesn't compare herself against ‘the norm.’ She challenges conceptions of femininity.” Examples of this character include Greek goddess Athena and Marlene Dietrich. Pretty powerful people, if you ask me.
My favorite Dilara Findikoglu collection has to be SS18. Some of the models for this collection included the iconic Jazzelle (@UglyWorldWide on Instagram), and famed tattoo artist Grace Neutral, who even has her eyeballs tattooed. Other than that, however, this collection showcased a clear juxtaposition between two usually opposing attitudes, and also something bigger: Findikoglu’s take on the modern world, and how her clothes convey the attitudes she curated. The collection had a total of 20 looks, but smaller subgroups within the collection each represented different roles that people play in society through Findikoglu’s eyes. The groups included, in order, Believers, Rebels, Thinkers, Politicians, Religious Leaders, Royals, and The God--who, unsurprisingly, was a woman dressed fully in red draped fabrics ranging from tulle to latex with a five-point star painted on her face. The link to the full collection is here.
Each and every look within this collection can be described as Camp, or over-the-top, dramatic, and often ironic fashion, but there are details and nuances in each look that truly separate it from the rest. For example, the ‘Believers’ all had a cream, almost off-white color scheme, which I associate with purity and conformity. The ‘Thinkers’ and ‘Rebels’ had more of a punk and streetwear attitude, which I heavily associate with people in my generation--we are generally more eclectic and curious than those before us, and it often shows through our style. The use of screen-printing techniques and chains also plays into this. The ‘Politicians’ were the flashiest in terms of silhouettes and characterization--I’m talking about a hot pink and black Roman-esque gown paired with George-Washington-hair, or a red and black Chanel-type tweed skirt-suit with red latex tights, and a pinstripe blazer combined with chain detailing. The more one understands what each look represents, the more genius it seems. Dilara described this collection through poetry’ the ending stanza reads, “God is bored of us now. She sides with the animals and the weather and they watch our digital alien rampage, with cool sad eves.” Essentially, she showcased her aesthetic as well as her perception of the world with hardcore punk romantic looks.
Dilara Findikoglu’s online shop offers a variety of her pieces; some runway garments including the “Nostradamus Dress,” the “Real World Set,” and the “Horus Dress Shirts,” but also some incredibly wearable and trendy skater shirts, t-shirts, and hoodies, all adorned with Dilara’s awesome screen-printed designs. She has quickly become one of my favorite designers in the four years since she came to the spotlight, and I am extremely eager to see where she takes her brand next.